Maya Njie creates fragrance as an act of memory, inheritance, and atmosphere. Through deeply personal compositions rooted in place and emotion, Njie has carved out a distinctive voice within independent perfumery—one that moves fluidly between visual storytelling, cultural reflection, and scent. Her fragrance Aethi Opum, a finalist in the artisan category at the Art and Olfaction Awards, draws inspiration from her West African lineage and the sensory landscape of the Sahel region, exploring themes of ancestry, transition, and remembrance through olfaction.

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In this conversation with BlackPerfumers.com, Njie reflects on the intuitive process behind Aethi Opum, the realities of working independently in today’s fragrance industry, and the importance of preserving cultural narratives through scent. With honesty and clarity, she speaks about balancing creative freedom with the demands of entrepreneurship, remaining authentic in an increasingly competitive niche space, and building fragrances that feel both transportive and intimately familiar.

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ABOUT AETHI OPUM

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What was the original spark or narrative that led you to create Aethi Opum?

I wanted to create a fragrance connected to my West African lineage and the Sahel region - something that felt ancient and familiar at the same time. When I visit Gambia, there’s a smell in the air that feels unchanged by time. I became interested in the idea that if you were transported back centuries, certain olfactory elements would still feel recognizable today, perhaps even as part of our scent DNA. Something that is hard to put your finger on but feels very familiar. Transition is something I thought a lot about too; like when the wet season turns into dry season and how that could feel on skin. Also, the notion of our older generations leaving stories and traditions with the younger generations to continue I guess this is my way of doing just that, through scent.

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How do you balance instinct and structure when building a perfume from concept to final formula?

The starting point is always instinctive - usually an atmosphere, image or feeling. Structure comes later through editing and refinement. I work quite intuitively at first, allowing materials to lead me somewhere emotionally, but over time the technical side becomes important too: balance, evolution on skin, longevity and cohesion. It’s a gradual process of stripping things back and rebuilding until it feels resolved.

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Was there a particular moment during creation when Aethi Opum “revealed itself” to you?

 

I think when my older sister got to try it before it was released. She thought it smelt just like how she remembers Gambia to be. She hasn’t been there for quite some time, so I was happy to let her travel back there for a moment.  It brought back strong memories for her and she’s keen to visit again soon. 

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PERFUMER PRACTICE

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What does your creative process look like day-to-day when working independently as a perfumer?

It’s a mixture of creativity and practical work. One part of the day might involve smelling raw materials, blending or editing photography, while another is spent dealing with logistics, legislation, stock or production. Being independent means moving constantly between artistic and operational thinking.

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In what ways does working independently give you freedom—and in what ways does it create pressure?

The freedom comes from being able to follow my own instincts and tell personal stories without compromise. I can move at my own pace and create fragrances that feel emotionally honest to me. The pressure comes from carrying every aspect of the business at once - financially, creatively and practically. It’s rewarding, but it can also be consuming.

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What kinds of stories or ideas are you most interested in exploring next through scent?

I’ll stay open to whatever comes my way and where I feel inspiration.  Whether it be from a feeling, place, person, song or color.

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BEING AN ART AND OLFACTION AWARDS FINALIST

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What did it mean to you personally to be recognized as a finalist in the artisan category of the Art and Olfaction Awards?

It meant a lot to me. Independent perfumery can be isolating at times, so having work recognized within that space feels validating. Especially because Aethi Opum is such a personal fragrance - it carries a lot of my own cultural references and emotional thinking within it. To see that connect with others too is a beautiful thing.

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How do you hold space for both visibility and authenticity in an increasingly competitive niche field?

I try not to chase too much external noise. The most important thing for me is maintaining a clear sense of identity and intention within the work itself. Trends move quickly, but authenticity usually comes from consistency and trust in your own perspective.

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LANDSCAPE FOR INDEPENDENT PERFUMERS

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How would you describe the current landscape for indie perfumers working outside major fragrance houses?

I think there’s a growing appetite for personal storytelling and independent voices within fragrance, which is exciting. People are becoming more curious about who is behind a perfume and how it’s made. At the same time, it’s still a very difficult space financially and structurally for many independent brands. I love that more and more independent spaces are created to facilitate the growth of this part of the industry.

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What are the biggest opportunities right now for independent creators in perfumery?

The opportunity lies in being able to create work with a strong point of view. Independent perfumers can move more freely and tell stories that might not exist within larger commercial structures. There’s also more openness now towards different cultural perspectives in scent.

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What are the most persistent challenges—creative, financial, or structural—that indie perfumers face?

Scaling sustainably while maintaining identity is a challenge. So is access - whether to materials, production or visibility. Many independent brands are self-funded and built gradually over years, which requires resilience and patience.

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What role do communities, platforms, or awards play in sustaining independent perfumery today?

They’re incredibly important because they create visibility and connection. Independent evaluation matters because there are so many different perspectives on culture and art being expressed through scent, and those voices deserve space and recognition.

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LOOKING AHEAD

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What do you hope Aethi Opum communicates to someone encountering your work for the first time?

I hope it communicates that perfume can feel transportive and connected to culture, family, memory and place without becoming literal. I’d like people to feel both familiarity, safety and curiosity when they wear it.

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How do you want your perfumery practice to evolve over the next few years?

I’d like to continue growing in a thoughtful way while remaining independent and creatively led. I’m interested in developing deeper relationships to materials and continuing to expand the visual and sensory world around the fragrances through photography, film and multi-sensory expressions.

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Want to learn more about Maya Njie Perfume? Click here!

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Photo Credit: Maya Njie Perfume